![]() That anvil they gave to me, and it has chunks off the corners of the face- something cast manganese steel anvils are prone to doing. It came out of my buddy s dad's John Deere shop when the dad finally got too old to work with his tools. My last anvil is a 200 lb Kohlswa, made in Sweden, cast manganese steel. I got about a 125 lb Peter Wright anvil, "Western Chief" forge blower and blast pipe/firepot (hearth rusted out), and a Champion wall drill and a mess of odd hand tools for 200 bucks. He had the contents of his late father's smith shop, closed in 1953 when his dad had died. My second Peter Wright I got when a friend retired. I paid 25 bucks, but that was 1964, and she threw in a mess of her late husband's tools. I bought it from a quarry blacksmith's widow. They are great anvils, and have a classic chape with a nice proportion. I've got two Peter Wright anvils in my own shop. I think if you found an anvil at a shop auction or estate sale you d get a better deal. I've seen anvils with horrible swaybacked faces, hunks missing off the beak (horn), and looking like you'd maybe use it for a boat anchor going for $ 150 and up. If you go to a blacksmith event and see what they get for anvils in the "tailgate sales" or fleamarket that often occurs as part of these events, you will be astounded. As was pointed out, the word "Blacksmith" is a buzzword. At a buck a pound, a low ball offer might be 150 bucks. IMO, give it a real good visual if you are interested, try a hammer/rebound test, and if it looks otherwise OK, I'd throw a lowball offer since it has been welded on. On the other hand, get an anvil with an improperly repaired face and start doing some real forging and bending on it and the welded repairs may not hold up. Around a fab shop or truck garage, with occasional use, a questionable weld repair on an anvil can last a long while since it is not seeing real hard use on a regular basis. An old anvil that has too flat a face and edges/corners that are too true may well have been repaired by welding. An old anvil can often have a worn face with a "saddle" or "swayback" to it. I'd take a real close look at the face of the anvil for differences in color of the metal (sign of hardfacing electrode), and for visual indications like cracks. If someone welded to the feet of the anvil, they may well have repaired a worn or chipped face with welding as well. for this anvil, since it has been welded on, I'd be hesitant to buy it without a real good inspection. Current prices seem significantly higher. For many years, a buck a pound was the average price for a good used anvil. I suppose the welds could be ground off to restore the anvil to it's original form and method of mounting. Some character in a fab shop or truck garage likely did that modification. The seller (or someone along the line) decidely reduced the value of the anvil by welding the baseplate to it. The seller is full of BS as to the age of the anvil- late 19th century to the 1920's would be about right. Peter Wright anvils supposedly had a forged wrought iron body with a "chilled steel face" forge welded to it. They value/appreciate the stuff too much. The seller claims to be a blacksmith, this is always been a big warning sign! I would notĮven think of buying tools from a blacksmith. You mixed me up, you already have a 1-2-2 and asking about another larger maybe?įor an honest 200lb no-exaggeration anvil, I might offer $250 - A start one with typical dings and sway.Īnything can be fixed, and after fixing the value is higher. Guy to say what a pristine surface is worth vs. Justify a premium for a fine working tool. The surface and edge is important for a working anvil and good condition may If you need a tool vs just collecting for fun makesĪ big difference what you will pay and how long you shop around. Looks like a $200 value as-is? I am neither a pricing The price seems high, but you are always free to negotiate. You do the math, 142 pounds? (check that please, its your question) The weight system of an anvil is only a google away:
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